We’re all familiar with the high-waisted fashion of the late Georgian/Regency era, but how about the reference to it as “empire,” be it an empire waist, an empire silhouette, or otherwise?

The style of the high waist is first seen in the late 1780s, its intent to reflect Greco-Roman fashion. Gone are the panniers and long-waisted corsets to emphasize the hips and give the illusion of a trim waist. Welcomed are the stays and high waist to emphasize the bodice and give, in a far different method than previously, the illusion of a trim figure. The waist was often wrapped with ribbon or belted if not emphasized by an open robe or topped with a spencer, depending on which year of fashion we’re eyeing. The dress below the waist was straight and loose. Its heyday is known best as being 1788-1820, although the dates of the “empire” style are much shorter, as we’ll see in a moment.

As we move into the turn of the century, the waist rises higher, reaching its highest point with Josephine de Beauharnais’s stylistic preferences. Obviously there’s far more to the fashion than just this to distinguish it, not only from its beginnings in the late 1780s but also compared to other styles, but this particular post isn’t so much about the fashion itself as the term associated with it. While the high waist was popular for several decades, the term “empire” waist refers specifically to the First French Empire, 1804-1815, when Napoleon’s first Empress brought attention to that exceedingly high waist.

What’s of the most interest here is that no one of the era would have called this style an “empire waist” or “empire silhouette,” as this term was not applied until the 20th century, pronounced as ahm-PEER, and is a modern way to classify this specific style as being that which appeared during Napoleon’s Empire. The dates of reference are thus directly aligned to the First French Empire dates. As we look back, we can identify eras of fashion, and thus this specific style is awarded an empiric title in honor of Napoleon’s Empire.

Something amusing to consider is the likelihood of anyone in England referring to their fashion in Napoleonic terms. England was at war with Napoleon! Since the term "empire waist" wasn't coined until the 20th century, we don't have to worry about the political ramifications of the time, but for the sake of humouring ourselves, imagine if the ladies of the era bragged about their "empire" gowns--French sympathiser!

This is a lovely post on the fashion styles of the Georgian era and touches on the “empire” waist: https://www.epochs-of-fashion.com/the-epochs/empire-regency/