What do you usually carry when out and about… a purse, a wallet, a wristlet, a phone with digital wallet?

18th century gowns had either pockets sewn into the petticoat or a slit to attach a small coin purse for easy access, so there was no need to carry any sort of bulky or external purse. We don’t see reticules or the like as a popular fashion accessory during the majority of the 18th century, at least not until after the French Revolution when the gown design changed to mimic that of Ancient Greece rather than the fashion of the French Court. With the straight silhouette of the new gowns, there was no room for a hidden pocket. From roundabout 1795-1820, we see external handbags, like reticules and other styles of purses, rise in popularity.

The largest size of handbag, most popular with the ladies, was the reticule, (pronounced and written as “ridicule” throughout the Regency, both reticule and ridicule used interchangeably). The reticule is a drawstring bag—hung by the wrist, never the shoulder—that could hold a smaller coin purse and other items, such as a handkerchief, smelling salts (vinaigrettes), a fan, handheld cosmetics like powder, etc. The most fashion conscious would have several reticules to match the most favoured gowns. Despite being the largest in size, these were still small by our standards, about 2-10 inches in length, give or take.

A reticule was not the same as a purse. A purse was of smaller size and specifically held coins. It could be fashioned using a simple stocking (called a Stocking Purse or Miser’s Purse), knitted, beaded, crocheted, or netted. These handcrafted purses made great gifts for friends and neighbours. Coin purses were popular with both genders. There were also pocket cases, also favoured by both genders, for carrying calling cards.

For the definitive guide, don’t miss Candice Hern’s discussion of purses and reticules, complete with images, history, and details for all the types.